The 5 golden rules of going blond...according to a brunette.

Blond. Le sigh..... It's beautiful. It's friggin' envious! Maybe the grass is always greener on the other side, but maybe it's just greener where you water it? Well, if you're thinking about watering your grass with bleach, there are five golden rules that are really important to consider when making the decision to go blond. 

Number 1 - Be patient!   

First thing's first: know your level. I'm a level 3, dark brown. Natural hair color can be described by a number! A color scale from 1 to 12 (12 being the lightest possible blond and 1 being black) can help you find your magical number. This scale is like the universal language of math, but for hair stylists. It's rare that anyone over the age of 16 actually has a level lighter than a 7. Generally, the lighter the natural color, the easier it is. If you fall between a 5 and a 7, you're a great candidate. Level 3 is dark brown and makes it quite a bit more challenging to achieve a natural looking blond. However, if a level 3 were absolutely determined to do it, well... where there's a will, there's a way. The most important thing to keep in mind if you're dark is that it's NOT going to happen in a single step. Be patient! If you care at all about preserving the structural integrity of your hair, you should do it in a muilt-step process. Begin with a full foil of highlights. Tone the highlights if necessary to a more desirable and natural caramel blond. Give your hair a few weeks to recover. Then get a partial foil of highlights to add more blond with multi dimensional shades. The second process will be a hugely noticeable step from the first, revealing way more blond. If necessary, and it very well could be, a third partial foil may be required, or maybe just a balayage. The third step covers up any remaining dark hair while also touching up existing blond. This milti-step process allows your hair to recover from the bleach, giving you time to do conditioning treatments to restore proteins. It also allows your stylist to help get you the most natural looking and precise blond that you want. Foils certainly aren't the only way to get a beautiful blond though. Balayage and ombres can also deliver gorgeous results. Are you going platinum? A multistep process over a more prolonged period of time is strongly suggested. 

Number 2 - Know your blond budget

Going blond requires maintenance! If you're going to do it, make sure that you can afford the upkeep every 4 to 12 weeks, depending on the desired blond and your existing natural level. Remember, the lighter you naturally are the easier it is. Thus, less maintenance is requiered. Retouches aren't the only maintenance required, however... this leads us to the wonderful world of product.

Number 3 - Be ready to upgrade

Typically, going blond requires higher levels of ammonia or bleaching products. You will notice a texture change in your hair that most likely will require less shampooing and more conditioning. I recommend finding a gentler, sulfate free shampoo and a reconstructive treatment mask (conditioner). Avoid color shampoos. Colored blond hair is porous and can grab too much pigment, leaving unwanted highlights. Though a violet-based shampoo is helpful in reducing brassy tones, it shouldn't be used on a regular basis. There are some incredible products for color/bleach treated hair. Ask your stylist for help! How you style your hair on a daily basis should also be a determining factor in the product you use. If you blow-dry and/or curl/straighten your hair daily, your hair is going to need some special products to maintain its health and structure. 

Number 4 - Be ready to change up your make-up!

Your hair color is the frame of your pretty face. Going blond will directly affect your current shade of lipstick, which will most likely need to change. After you go blond, get some make-up tips from a cosmetic counter by someone who has never seen you before.

Number 5 - Find a blond color specialist

Be on the lookout for someone whose color you admire. Ask them, "Who does your color?". Don't be afraid to ask someone that same question whose color you think is hideous, so you know where not to go. If your colorist pulls out a crochet hook and a plastic cap, reschedule with someone else.  Also, consider asking for a glaze. After going blond, a glaze is a non peroxide treatment with a sheer shade option that helps acheive that perfect blond tone and seal in an extra 4 to 6 weeks of shine.

If you're on the other end of the spectrum, having already been down this road and you want to reverse the process, do it slowly as well. Grow out some roots and add darker low lights, using the same multi step process. 

BANG BANG BANG!

To bang or not to bang. That is the question. You my dear, have a dilemma of Shakespearian proportions. 

Bangs are getting hugely popular again. Being in beauty school offers nothing short of endless temptations to constantly cut one's own hair. So needless to say, I have bangs. Actually, I always have and probably always will because a) I don't have the patience to grow them out and b) my forehead is bigger than an olympic size swimming pool. I know everything there is to know about cutting, styling, tolerating and loving/hating bangs. If you're thinking about having them for yourself, one thing you should know is that the commitment goes beyond the time it takes to grow them back out. Bangs are high maintenance. You have to blow dry them to lay straight. You can't go to bed with them wet. Even a slight breeze threatens to give you 80's feathered bangs, as does bike riding. They need trimming every three weeks to maintain the style you like. They get greasy almost overnight. The list continues... However, if done right, they're ridiculously cute, charming, sexy and fun. Take into account the overall size of your forehead. If you have a large forehead, bangs are a good direction to go. It takes attention away from the forehead and redirects it to the more flattering attributes of your face, like eyes and cheek bones. If your forehead is short, make sure you tell your stylist to give you heavier bangs, starting further back on your crown, in a V shape, as to not make your forehead appear blunt and  even smaller, but rather more proportionate to the length of your face.  There are so many styles to play with. From side-swept to blunt, to long and heavy face-framing bangs. Bring in a variety of pictures to show your stylist, giving them the opportunity to talk with you about which one would look best for your face shape. Talk about what kind of cutting techniques offer the style you like. Point cutting, blunt cutting, razor cutting, etc. Ask them to show you different ways to style them. Do you have cowlicks? Ask how to work around it. Talk about what you're long term goals are for your hair and which style of bangs fit well into that equation.  Be brave! Be prepared! Be bangin'!